The Struggle Climbing Show

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

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Elite climber, Emil Abrahamsson, is back on the show to discuss:

His journey to sending 9a (5.14d)

Managing a string of mystery injuries

Being told he needed to quit climbing forever

The route Adam Ondra recommended to him

His off-the-wall training to build endurance

Why pull-ups are pointless

Finger training he did to get better at sport climbing

YouTube projects (and struggles)

His secret reality tv project

 
Check out Emil's YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson
 
Join the Fantasy Climbing League: https://fantasyclimbingleague.com/
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Shoulder Scare Cold Open

00:23 Welcome Back Emil Returns

03:14 Swedish Place Names Banter

03:56 Dad Portrait No Eyebrows

05:35 First 9A Goal Talk

09:50 Injury Streak And Misdiagnosis

13:30 Why We Climb Soul Searching

17:36 Rehab Trench No Pullups

19:35 Straight Arm Board Lessons

29:14 Arco Project Picked With Ondra

31:37 First Sessions Reality Check

34:13 Off Route Endurance Training

39:23 Resting Skills Kneebars Mastery

41:58 Sport Skills Boost Bouldering

43:25 Training Timeline and Shoulder

44:17 Pullups Versus Climbing Skill

46:37 Cardio Base for Climbers

48:15 App Break Intentional Climber

50:17 Finger Training and Hangboard

52:58 Personal Strengths and Superpowers

54:47 Fear of Falling Mindset

57:57 Next Goals and Injury Risk

01:03:59 YouTube Workload and Big Island

01:10:08 Research Projects and Physical 100

01:12:39 Fantasy Climbing League Explained

01:17:43 Wrap Up and Host Training Update

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Grab an oice cold coike, some people jerky, and tether yourself to this Bonus Movie Night takedown (and love fest) of the Netflix adventure thriller, Apex. Shoutout to Andrew and Chris from The Runout for inviting me to join the fun! Give them some Patreon love if you can-- they make a great show over there.

Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

 

Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including:

How to test critical force 

Why it matters

My critical force test

Why MVC is still king

How critical force tells us what to train 

Improving power endurance on and off wall

The big change I’m making to my training now

What boulderers should focus on kill

Why so many pros don’t test finger strength 

 

Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results.

 
Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out:

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Critical Force Teaser
00:22 Show Intro and Focus
01:39 Critical Force Explained
05:20 Host Updates Australia
06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson
08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown
11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers
15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau
18:23 Testing Method Matters
23:58 Who Should Use This
25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad
26:59 What Results Mean Training
31:42 Route Goal Flower Power
33:28 Training Interventions Percentages
41:49 No Gear Testing Options
43:49 Treadwall for Endurance
45:28 How To Train From Metrics
47:38 Critical Force Takeaways
48:57 Power Endurance Priority
50:28 Training Tools Setup
52:09 Active Rest Explained
53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks
56:11 Retesting and Progress
57:35 Elite Curve and Technique
01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing
01:04:00 More Quality Attempts
01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details
01:11:41 In Season Projecting
01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season
01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol
01:23:49 My Current Training Plan
01:27:25 Final Wrap Up

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

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Elite climber Adam Ondra explores:

Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders

How he’s stronger than ever at 33

The new training tools he’s using 

The truth about his "secret" crimp grips 

Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?)

His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts 

Training solo vs with a crew 

Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 App Announcement

01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra

03:46 Life in Arco Italy

05:39 Smith Rock Stories

06:57 Retiring From Comps

08:49 Flash Mindset Explained

12:20 Training Tools and Crew

16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown

19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx

20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex

22:35 Strength Testing Habits

24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb

32:09 Flash vs Project Potential

35:02 App Break Intentional

37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts

38:47 Flash Warmup Routine

40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely

43:37 Solo vs Crew Training

46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility

51:39 Sport Climbing Goals

53:49 Arco New Route Potential

55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated

59:20 What Makes 9C Plus

01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing

01:06:54 Bonus Episode Promo

01:09:45 Host Training Update

01:11:13 Intentional Climber App

01:14:29 Final Wrap Up

 

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 150+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

In this Pro Clinic, mindset coach Angus Kille (with guest appearance from Hazel Findlay) explore:

Process goals vs outcome goals

The power of journaling and reflection

Using thoughtful goals to mitigate fear of failure 

Finding your big Why

Is grade chasing a “bad” goal?

Intrinsic vs extrinsic goals 

Setting S.M.A.R.T. goals 

Free access to the Mindset Makeover kit from Strong Mind: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/course/mindset-makeover
 
Explore all of Strong Mind's resources: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/
 
Start your free 14-day Trial of the Intentional Climber app, and use code STRUGGLE to unlock mindset tools from Hazel Findlay and the Stronger Fingers program from coach Kris Hampton: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast
 
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The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to:

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

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Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Growth Mindset Hook
00:24 Pro Clinic Returns
00:47 Intentional Climber App
02:36 Why Goals Need Purpose
03:56 Meet Hazel and Angus
05:05 Mallorca Retreat Recap
06:27 Trip Goals and Intentions
08:10 Hazel on Goal Setting
10:44 Angus Evolves His Goals
12:30 Meltdown Project Tactics
18:23 Outcome vs Process Goals
23:53 Find Your North Star
27:09 Ryan Shares His Why
32:17 App Break Intentional Climber
34:48 Digging Deeper Than Progress
44:19 Finding Your Why Support
45:47 Strongmind Resources Explained
46:24 Mindset Frames Growth Mindset
49:24 Bad Why External Values
54:12 From North Star To Goals
55:44 Process Vs Outcome Goals
01:01:05 Intrinsic Vs Extrinsic Motivation
01:07:35 Staying Intrinsically Focused
01:11:35 SMART Goals Without Overload
01:16:35 Distill Your Why Mantra
01:18:19 Wrap Up Links Newsletter
01:21:22 Host Reflection North Star
01:26:24 Intentional Climber App Updates
01:28:09 Final Thanks And Support

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!