The Struggle Climbing Show

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss:

How to make a 30-min session count

Removing friction to start workouts faster

Being strong doesn’t mean being good

Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant

How dangerous is falling while pregnant?

Helpful signs to know when to end a session

Postpartum training and climbing

I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you)

Listener Q&A

 
Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: joy@trainedbyjoy.com
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why This Paper Matters
00:48 Meet Joy Black
05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges
08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency
13:08 Beating Perfectionism
16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle
21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers
24:52 Sponsor Break
27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data
33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk
36:24 Risk Rates In Context
37:29 Talking With Providers
40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown
41:38 How Climbers Self Modify
44:03 Misconceptions About Falling
45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes
46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails
50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season
54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break
56:04 Mental Health Benefits
58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training
01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline
01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery
01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained
01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab
01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression
01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All
01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training
01:20:55 Finger Training Focus
01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup
01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters
01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls
01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A
01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips
01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy
01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild
01:37:41 Where to Find Joy
01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic
01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events
01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

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Weekend Warrior and badass adventurer Eddie Taylor explores:

How to plan a first expedition as a weekend warrior

What to do when the plan goes sideways

Dealing with killer mosquitoes

Trundling while climbing

Training hard on a busy schedule

Participating in the SCARPA Athlete Mentorship Initiative

How he raised funds for his Everest expedition

Why onsighting is the way

 
Learn more about the SAMI program here: https://us.scarpa.com/pages/scarpa-athlete-mentorship-initiative-sami
 
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

-

Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Midnight Pre Climb Panic
00:23 Sendtember Welcome
01:10 Meet Eddie Taylor
02:38 Weekend Warrior Resume
04:55 Catching Up Dad Life
06:03 Family Climbing Trip Beta
07:17 Why The Cirque
08:30 Getting There Logistics
09:43 What Makes It Unique
11:59 Endless Daylight Window
12:58 Training And Prep Reality
14:22 The Expedition Team
15:32 Goals And Route Wish List
17:22 Parenting Time Tradeoffs
18:54 Sponsor Break Scarpa
20:19 Sponsor Break Physiovantage
22:30 Trip Length Breakdown
23:24 Planning And Packing Lessons
27:29 The Brutal Mosquito Hike
29:16 Fairy Meadows Vibe
30:39 Right Into The Storm Warmup
31:43 Lotus Flower Tower Push
35:17 Summit Glow And Rappel
36:10 Rest Days and Forecast
37:46 Goals Shift After Storms
38:26 Power of Silence Attempt
40:29 Bailing and Regrets
41:43 Arc'teryx Gear Break
43:08 Hawaiian Shirts and Meaning
45:30 Parenting and Next Trips
47:46 Training Split and Simul Mileage
49:12 Freerider Boulder and Board Power
53:22 Scarpa SAMI Mentorship
58:13 Funding Everest Lessons
01:03:57 Fall Goals and Yosemite Plans
01:07:13 Ground Up Adventure Ethic
01:09:01 Wrap Up and Listener Takeaways
01:10:44 SAMI Links and Bonus Episode
01:13:05 Host Training and Horseshoe Hell
01:17:33 Final Thanks and Sign Off

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

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Michaela Kiersch: Her Latest 5.15a (9a+) Ascent, Grade Debates, Power Endurance Training, and Reel Rock
 

The story behind her FA of Mad Lib (9a / 5.14d)

Sending Dolby Surround (9a+ / 5.15a) after a hold broke

Trading beta with Will Bosi

Taking her strength and power endurance to a new level

Handling send pressure on a limit project

The challenge of grading the hardest climbs

A case for doing easier volume

The most efficient way to build endurance

Being featured in Reel Rock

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Pressure at the Limit
00:24 Mikaela Returns
01:27 Big Sends Preview
04:03 Lyme Disease Detour
07:10 Catching Up and Moving
08:50 Vermont Bouldering Tear
09:53 Madlib First Ascent
15:22 Jaws and Size Beta
16:25 Dolby Surround Backstory
19:04 Two Months on Dolby
21:44 Sponsor Break
24:41 Training for Dolby
27:08 Send Day Mindset
32:50 Grading and Consensus
35:50 Grades Versus Inspiration
39:20 Breakthrough Grades Memories
42:21 Colorado Plans And Technique
44:58 Tactics And Smart Volume
45:55 Intentional Climber App
47:47 Anti Style And Beta Sharing
50:34 Training For Route Season
51:48 Endurance Sessions Explained
55:22 Madness Cave Prep Tips
58:32 Mindset Journaling Progress
01:02:13 Real Rock Feature Reveal
01:06:46 Bonus Episode And Patreon
01:11:00 Host Red Session Update
01:16:18 Thanks Sponsors And Wrap

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Casually reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including:

Recap of August goals (hits and misses)

Struggling like crazy with the new training load

How I achieved 18% more completed workouts

Squamish recap

Getting on the fall 12c projie for the first time

Technology I'm using to hack my training

Can a vegetarian use collagen?

September goals

 

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

 

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

 

I hope your training and climbing are going great!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

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Jonathan Siegrist, Alannah Yip, Mike Foley, and Tyler Thompson sit down at the Arc'teryx Academy to explore:

Memorable climbing experiences (and epics) in Squamish

The process of athlete-designer collaboration for gear design

The future of hard sport climbing

When will we see a 5.15d (9c) repeat or 5.16a (9c+) FA

Why America is falling behind on hard sport climbing

What went into Arc'teryx's brand new sport harness, the Lithos SL

Gates in or out

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

Arc’teryx: Check out the new Lithos SL harness; the lightest and most comfortable harness I've ever tied into. Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

Intentional Climber: Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for busy climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right):

00:00 Intro

00:24 Ryan Returns From Squamish

01:10 Meet The Panel

02:18 Puppy Distraction

04:47 Live Show Kickoff

04:59 Enormocast Origins

06:23 Old School Harnesses

10:03 Suffering And Progress

11:41 Alannah First Gear Story

13:53 Mike Foley Squamish Intro

15:34 Designing Lithos SL

19:31 Mike Path To Arc'teryx

21:34 Harness Giveaway Moment

22:41 Future Of Sport Climbing

25:13 Non Gendered Fit System

29:31 Bring Out Tyler And J Star

31:00 Clinic And First Leads

32:11 Squamish Memories Grand Wall

35:41 Squamish Epic Stories

37:49 Harness Design Testing

41:57 Minimalist Sport Rack

46:06 Future of Hard Climbing

52:15 Route Development Debate

54:07 Audience Q and Harnesses

59:22 Squamish Trip Recap

01:00:46 Bouldering and Slab Lessons

01:05:10 Multi Pitch Humble Pie

01:09:23 Sport Day and Film Night

01:12:04 Fun Over Grades

01:13:46 Thanks and Wrap Up

 

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!