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Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We've had these types of chats before, but it's always nice to see what we've missed. You'll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new to you.
While both of us have a penchant for vintage Rolex, Heuer, and other well-known marques, our love for vintage brands is universal. Whether it's a cool piece from a one-hit wonder or an everyman's watch company that made some seriously good stuff, we're up for it. Today, we'll mention some oft-overlooked opportunities to grab some of that vintage goodness.
Handgelenkskontrolle
We begin our show with a discussion about Mike's home state, Florida. Then, we move on to television, where Balazs has been watching Tehran, Hijack, and His & Hers. Meanwhile, Mike has engaged his '90s youth with Love Story. For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs is wearing his trusty vintage Rolex 5513 Submariner after his latest journey. Mike has been exploring modern watches lately due to the never-ending rain in the UK. This week, he's wearing his Aquastar Benthos H2.
Vintage brands worth looking into
There are fantastic opportunities within the watch hobby to enjoy great pieces at an affordable price. Sure, a vintage Rolex or Patek Philippe is a wonderful thing to own. However, with high prices, scary fakes, and the risk of loss as ever-present concerns, it's worthwhile to look elsewhere. Today, we're focused on vintage brands that don't get much attention but still offer loads of value and satisfaction.
We start our discussion with Bulova, a once-mighty Swiss-American brand that's thriving again under Citizen's ownership. Still, aside from a few pricey key chronographs and dive watches from the 60s, this high-volume brand has some gems that are very easy to find and affordable. With in-house movements and enough styles to fill a museum, there's likely something for everyone.
Roamer is another brand that receives almost no attention from collectors. This is a shame because the company made some truly high-quality and uniquely designed watches. Signed crystals, monobloc cases, and NSA bracelets are just some of the goodness one can find.
Wittnauer is another interesting case. Longines formerly owned the brand, and it is now another entrant in the Citizen stable. Here again, aside from a few select chronographs and an interesting electronic watch, there are oodles of fantastic references available for little money. In particular, see the military or military-inspired pieces.
Loads of options
We also discuss another Swiss-American brand, Gruen. From the Curvex to later models, there are plenty of great options. Similarly, check out bygone house brands from American jewelry and department stores. Companies such as Baylor (a Zales brand) or Le Gant (from Montgomery Ward) are often great places to find watches from more famous marques, like Heuer.
Finally, there's Mido, a brand that used fancy

Spend enough time around watches, whether at events, in boutiques, or just talking to fellow enthusiasts, and you start to notice the same talking points coming up again and again. Certain topics seem to define how we think about watches today. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Lex and RJ to unpack those recurring conversations. The idea for the episode came to Lex while chatting with a friend and watchmaker in Geneva, a reminder that even at the heart of the industry, the same themes keep resurfacing. From in-house movements to size, heritage, and hype, the trio explores what really drives modern watch conversations and the impact these exchanges can have on the industry.

It’s a question that comes up from time to time in today’s watch world: Does resale value affect how much you enjoy a watch? With secondary market prices discussed almost as frequently as specifications, it’s hard to ignore the financial side of collecting. In this episode of Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho discuss whether resale value changes the way we approach watches. Does strong value retention make a watch easier to enjoy, or does thinking about future resale quietly undermine the whole point of wearing one?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we address a listener's question about price transparency in the vintage market. Does it exist, and if not, how should a new collector navigate these murky waters? Listen in as we take a long look at this interesting topic.
After last week's episode about what happens when a previously undervalued brand gains attention, we decided to focus on another deep topic. This time, we pick a listener's suggestion and discuss price transparency in the vintage watch marketplace. Thanks to Tachytales for the suggestion, and thankfully, we've got a lot to say!
Handgelenkskontrolle
We begin our discussion with discussions about TV shows. The second season of Paradise is a must-watch. Then, we discuss the Oscars and several of the movies featured during the annual award show (yes, we made a mistake about Sinners winning the Best Picture award). Balazs has just returned from a business trip in Miami, and he has plenty to say about the weather, the clothing, and the Miami Heat. While there, he also had the chance to check out the latest Omega Speedmaster Professional "Reverse Panda" in steel. Regarding the Handgelenkskontrolle, Mike is wearing the Aquastar Benthos H2, a great watch for the rainy weather in London. Balazs brought a trio of watches to Miami and has opted for the one he wore the least. Today, he's donning his Rolex Submariner 5513.
Price transparency in the vintage watch market
For our main topic, we attempt to answer a faithful listener's question about market pricing for vintage watches. Yes, it can be difficult to know what to pay for a given watch when prices are all over the map. The same is true when past sales prices are challenging to find. And what about dealers who seem to charge a lot more than others?
First, we understand that some collectors of vintage watches are more comfortable taking risks than others. Still, we advocate research ad nauseam until purchasing feels like less of a gamble. Frankly, we feel that some watches are worth paying a dealer premium for, while others are more apt for finding on a site like eBay or at a local auction. For example, we'd likely refrain from buying an older Rolex or Patek Philippe on a whim.
Of course, there are other considerations, such as condition and service history. Some dealers specialize in museum-like new-old-stock pieces, which garner premium prices. Others ensure that all watches have received a full service before sale, a costly feature that isn't insignificant for an older timepiece.
We always come back to doing one's homework, but it's not just about the watches. More than ever, we've seen a surge in Instagram-based dealers with dubious credentials. Digging deep to learn about their reputations, the watches they're selling, and even checking if commenters are always the same are sound tactics. In the end, though, there are few absolutes on the pricing of vintage watches. If a watch is honest, in your price range, and desirable, then it's probably a good buy.
We hope you enjoy today's show. Feel free to leave us your comments below, and don't hesitate to suggest any additional show topics. Thanks for listening!

The microbrand segment of the watch industry has evolved dramatically over the last decade. What once felt like a niche corner of the horology world has grown into a thriving ecosystem of small companies producing thoughtful, design-driven watches. Some focus on value, others on originality, and a few are beginning to push the boundaries of what a small brand can achieve. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Daan, and RJ discuss the microbrands they believe are worth keeping an eye on in 2026. These aren’t necessarily brands that just released something big; rather, they’re the ones the trio expects might do something interesting in the year ahead.