PodcastsSportThat's Not Real Climbing

That's Not Real Climbing

Jinni Xia
That's Not Real Climbing
Neueste Episode

63 Episoden

  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In

    29.06.2026 | 1 Std. 5 Min.
    Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.

    Guest links:
    Max's Instagram

    Reference links:
    Bern Women's M3
    CWIF Cartwheel Boulder

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background
    7:00 - World climbing setting levels
    10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked
    15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?
    18:24 - What is the perfect round?
    22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?
    24:19 - Forerunning process
    29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves
    34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!
    38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors
    42:34 - Zones vs tops point change
    44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse
    52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!
    54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?
    59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?
    1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?
    1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?
    1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN

    15.06.2026 | 1 Std. 11 Min.
    Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day.

    Guest links:
    Sam’s Youtube
    Sam’s Instagram

    Reference links:

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series
    6:40 - Can you see results in ISO?
    9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2
    12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses
    16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing
    22:05 - French team training and powering out
    24:30 - French Team Selection
    29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round
    31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona
    35:19 - Getting energy from the audience
    38:41 - Climbing journal
    43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor?
    51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17?
    53:08 - Climbing optimization
    57:13 - Quitting climbing for running...
    1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior?
    1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up?
    1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu?
    1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!

    04.05.2026 | 1 Std. 9 Min.
    Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.

    Guest links:
    Website
    Instagram

    Reference links:

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL
    4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT
    8:00 - Youth getting into competing more?
    9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining?
    11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures
    16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured
    21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing
    32:03 - What does arthritis look like?
    37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis?
    38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing....
    46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury
    49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers?
    52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene?
    59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility?
    1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!

    27.04.2026 | 1 Std. 20 Min.
    You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition.

    Guest links:
    Fantasy Climbing League Site
    Emil’s Youtube
    Felix’s Instagram
    Emil’s Instagram

    Reference links:
    Boardclimbs App

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:01 - Living in Arco
    5:22 - Starting climbing and competing
    14:26 - Existential AI talk
    17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview
    21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!!
    22:47 - Drafting strategy
    25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent??
    33:36 - Top picks of the season
    42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks?
    45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate
    52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?!
    1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi?
    1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most?
    1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like?
    1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have?
    1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon?
    1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!
  • That's Not Real Climbing

    Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing

    13.04.2026 | 1 Std. 17 Min.
    Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches.

    Guest links:
    Sam’s Instagram
    Guitar Instagram

    Reference links:

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics
    0:00 - Intro
    1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
    2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old
    7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing
    9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure?
    12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits
    16:51 - Rough 2025 season
    22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy
    26:37 - Being a short king
    31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings?
    35:41 - Training with the French team
    37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach?
    41:21 - Training only with climbing
    45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris
    47:05 - Secrets to French slab
    51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing?
    56:06 - Mental game
    58:41 - 2026 goals
    1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar?
    1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing?
    1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength?
    1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine?
    1:15:56 - Where to find Sam
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Über That's Not Real Climbing
A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.
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