That's Not Real Climbing

Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango.

Guest links:
USA Belay Instagram
C Lad's Instagram
Meagan's Instagram
USA Belay YouTube

Reference links:
Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series
4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying
14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer?
20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel
22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level
27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing
34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms
39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role
43:41 - Snugroping?
45:28 - Athlete interactions
48:00 - Dual-belay system
52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer?
56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers
1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best?
1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder
1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them?
1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at?
1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom

Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.

Guest links:
Max's Instagram

Reference links:
Bern Women's M3
CWIF Cartwheel Boulder

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background
7:00 - World climbing setting levels
10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked
15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?
18:24 - What is the perfect round?
22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?
24:19 - Forerunning process
29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves
34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!
38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors
42:34 - Zones vs tops point change
44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse
52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!
54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?
59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?
1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?
1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?
1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max

Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day.

Guest links:
Sam’s Youtube
Sam’s Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series
6:40 - Can you see results in ISO?
9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2
12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses
16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing
22:05 - French team training and powering out
24:30 - French Team Selection
29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round
31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona
35:19 - Getting energy from the audience
38:41 - Climbing journal
43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor?
51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17?
53:08 - Climbing optimization
57:13 - Quitting climbing for running...
1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior?
1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up?
1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu?
1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam

Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.

Guest links:
Website
Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL
4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT
8:00 - Youth getting into competing more?
9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining?
11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures
16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured
21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing
32:03 - What does arthritis look like?
37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis?
38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing....
46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury
49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers?
52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene?
59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility?
1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy

You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition.

Guest links:
Fantasy Climbing League Site
Emil’s Youtube
Felix’s Instagram
Emil’s Instagram

Reference links:
Boardclimbs App

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:01 - Living in Arco
5:22 - Starting climbing and competing
14:26 - Existential AI talk
17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview
21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!!
22:47 - Drafting strategy
25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent??
33:36 - Top picks of the season
42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks?
45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate
52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?!
1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi?
1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most?
1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like?
1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have?
1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon?
1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!