The Go To Food Podcast

Lorna McNee joins us at Cail Bruich to tell the remarkable story behind becoming the chef who brought a Michelin star back to Glasgow for the first time in 18 years. She takes us from washing pots in a small Italian restaurant and a teenage stage at Gordon Ramsay, to walking into Andrew Fairlie’s legendary two-Michelin-starred kitchen as an apprentice and immediately wondering whether she was good enough. Lorna spent the next 12 years working alongside Fairlie, who became her great mentor, and opens up about the moments she wanted to quit, what made him such an extraordinary teacher and why his death ultimately made her realise it was time to step out and discover what her own cooking looked like.
We also hear how Great British Menu transformed Lorna’s career, from the devastation of narrowly missing out first time around to returning and becoming Champion of Champions, before taking over Cail Bruich and winning its Michelin star within just five months. She reveals the bizarre way Michelin broke the news to her over FaceTime during Covid, why the restaurant subsequently became fully booked for two years, and argues that even established head chefs should still disappear for a month to stage, learn new techniques and come back better. Plus, why she hates matcha and hot honey, the night vegan protesters invaded her restaurant and had to be removed by police, and plenty more from one of Scotland’s greatest chefs.

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This week we’re joined by one of the most influential chefs of his generation, Josh Niland, the Australian chef who has completely changed the way the restaurant world thinks about fish. Josh tells us why our obsession with ultra-fresh fish may actually be holding us back, how learning to treat fish more like meat transformed his cooking, and why a piece of advice from legendary fish chef Stephen Hodges changed the course of his career. He also reveals the influence of Heston Blumenthal on his thinking, why so many chefs initially thought his ideas were completely mad, and how he went from questioning everything he’d been taught about seafood to building Saint Peter around an entirely new philosophy.
But some of Josh’s greatest innovations came out of necessity rather than ambition. He takes us back to the terrifying moment his accountant told him, “You’re not even going to make it to August,” and explains how the financial pressure of running a restaurant forced him to confront just how much valuable fish chefs were throwing in the bin. That obsession with using the whole animal has since produced some extraordinary dishes: tuna treated like beef and turned into everything from ribeye and sirloin to cheeseburgers, sobrassada and Wellington, fish eyes transformed into crackers, and matured kingfish kept for more than two weeks until its skin becomes dry and crisp while the flesh develops remarkable flavour.
We also hear about the experiments that pushed even Josh’s philosophy to its limits — from making ice cream from the fat surrounding fish eyes to turning fish fat into soap and candles, and even finding uses for the bones that would normally be discarded. Josh explains why ageing fish can make it better rather than worse, why chefs could effectively be throwing away half their profits every time they fillet one, and why insecurity and convention have made the industry so resistant to change. It’s a fascinating conversation about creativity, failure, waste, money and the extraordinary possibilities hidden inside the parts of a fish most of us have spent our lives throwing away.

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Welcome to a special edition of Go-To Food where Freddy and Ben ditch the guest and get into the industry gossip, rumours and behind-the-scenes stories that normally don’t make it onto the podcast.
From the guests we’ve chased for years, the interviews that nearly never happened, awkward encounters with some very famous chefs and what really goes on before and after the microphones are switched on, we’re spilling a few stories from behind the curtain.
We also get into the chaos of actually making Go-To Food — the shoots that have gone wrong, unexpected moments with guests, the things people have said off-air, restaurant-world whispers and some of the more ridiculous situations the podcast has landed us in over the last few years.
Plus, who’s been brilliant, who’s been elusive, who we’re still desperate to get on and a few bits of gossip we probably should have kept to ourselves.

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This week we’re joined by Jack Coggins, the chef behind Goodbye Horses, Stable Wines and The Dreamery, for a brilliant journey through one of the most unconventional careers in London food. Jack started helping out in an East London café at just 12, studied English with dreams of becoming a food writer, then found himself unable to afford the entry-level jobs in publishing and instead earning his living in kitchens.
We hear about the moment during lockdown when Jack decided to take cooking seriously, the glorious lawlessness of Hot 4 U, and the extraordinary night out that ended with him having what he describes as “half a fight” with Matthew Scott, only to be offered a job by him the following morning. From there came pop-ups around the country, Papi, and eventually Good Boy Horses, where Jack has built one of London’s most distinctive restaurants alongside the wildly successful ice-cream parlour The Dreamery.
Over an outrageous spread of raw beef, tomato tart, cheese toasties, chicken rice and plenty of wine, Jack explains the childhood food memories that still shape his cooking, why hospitality should offer genuine escapism, and why familiar food done brilliantly beats novelty for novelty’s sake. Plus, he has plenty to say about chefs and food creators lifting other people’s recipes without giving them credit. A funny, thoughtful and wonderfully unfiltered conversation with one of the most exciting young cooks in London.

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Gordon Ramsay told Aktar Islam he needed to break free. What followed changed his life and helped set him on the path to two Michelin stars — and now he wants a third.

In this episode of The Go-To Food Podcast, we sit down with Aktar Islam, one of the most influential figures in modern British Indian cooking, for a brilliantly candid conversation about ambition, Michelin stars, Gordon Ramsay, the British curry house and the brutal economics of running restaurants today.

Aktar made his name at Lasan, winning both The F Word and Great British Menu, before walking away to build something entirely on his own terms. He went on to open Opheem in Birmingham, the first restaurant in the city to receive two Michelin stars and one of only two Indian restaurants in the country to hold two stars.

He reveals the advice Gordon Ramsay gave him at a crucial point in his career, why he believes that intervention helped transform his mindset, and why Gordon remains one of his greatest inspirations.

Aktar also explains why Opheem is run almost at cost, claims the government made 90 times more from the restaurant than he did last year, and argues that Britain’s tax system is pushing independent hospitality towards breaking point.

We also get into the evolution of British Indian food, why Aktar became frustrated with traditional curry houses, his belief that chefs should be able to cook across cultures regardless of their background, and his extraordinary claim that Indian chefs have been copying his approach for decades.

Plus, Aktar opens up about walking away from Lasan, turning down opportunities abroad to remain close to his son, building Birmingham’s food scene, the dish that generated hundreds of complaint emails when he removed it from the menu, and why three Michelin stars remain firmly in his sights.

A fascinating conversation about Indian food, ambition, identity, Michelin stars, Gordon Ramsay and what it really takes to build a world-class restaurant.

Subscribe to The Go-To Food Podcast for new interviews with the biggest chefs, restaurateurs and personalities in food every week.

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